Pillow Covers: Invisible Zipper and Dog Ears

I always wondered why the corners of my pillows stuck out a bit and were kind of pointy. After a bit of searching, I found out they are called “dog ears” in the sewing world. You can see how they kind of stick out here on this pillow I made:IMG_20170420_122214

There are rulers out there that you can buy that show you how to cut your fabric to eliminate these dog ears. After much searching, I found a few tips that I liked, but I wasn’t sure how to add an invisible zipper.

  • This site basically has you take your measurements and divide them by 4. Then you would use that to mark your fabric. That is what I did.
  • Other sites said to divide in thirds and that is where you would put your first mark. I thought that might be a bit too much.

The pillow I am making in this tutorial will be a 16″ finished pillow. I know other tutorials call for you cutting the material 16″x16″, but I don’t do that (personal preference).


  • 2: 17″x17″ pieces of fabric
  • 1 invisible zipper (12″-14″ invisible zippers work with this method).
  • invisible zipper foot
  • zipper foot
  • straight stitch foot

Cut your fabric so that you have 2 17″x17″ pieces.  Now the above tutorial has you make the following marks:

  • 1/2″ square at the corner – I just put a dot 1/2″ in on both sides
  • place a mark 4″ from the corner – how is this figured out? I took my finished size of 16″ and divided by 4.
  • connect the marks you made with lines – I actually used my ruler and just used my rotary cutter to cut those sections off.


Zig zag around each side to help with fraying and press each side with your iron.


Zipper installation:

  1. Place your zipper on the bottom of one side of your fabric with the correct side facing down. I started with the top of my zipper about 1.5″ from the left side and pinned. Take it to your machine and use your invisible zipper foot to sew it on.IMG_20170906_132009027
  2. Now you need to sew the zipper to the second piece of fabric. You want to line up your sides so the zipper goes in correctly. Once you do that start pinning at the top of the zipper, stopping your last pin around the same point as you started the first side. IMG_20170906_132302171
  3. Now that the invisible zipper is in, pin that side together since it isn’t completely sewn together yet. IMG_20170906_132644814_HDR
  4. You will then put your regular zipper foot on your machine and move your needle position all the way to the right. Pull the ends of your zipper out to make sewing the zipper in easier and sew from the zipper to the edge of the fabric. You want to start about 1/2″ before where you stopped stitching the invisible zipper in.IMG_20170906_134450992


Now all you need to do is pin the whole pillow together. Keep your zipper open some so you can turn the pillow right side out.


And here is your finished pillow! The dog ears are almost completely eliminated, and my pillow looks square!IMG_20170906_122523


Happy sewing! If you have any questions, please let me know!


Sweater Pillow

Before we left for our 4th of July vacation, my mom asked if I could help her transform a sweater into a pillow. She had found the pillow at a yard sale that she visited with a friend, and her friend loved the sweater!

When I saw the sweater, the first thing I did was seam rip all the stitches that held the bottom hem together. I also seam ripped the sleeves where they came together. This gave us the ability to use the sleeves for a second pillow. By seam ripping the bottom seam, it gave us the ability to see more of the pillow design.

The sweater was a pretty good size so we bought an 18″ square pillow form at Joanns and a bolster pillow.

We cut the main part of the sweater into a 19″ square. When I sew sweater pillows, I use a 1/2″ seam allowance. If you feel the sweater is not tightly woven, then you should iron an interfacing onto the back of the sweater before you cut it apart. IMG_20170703_152526

Place right sides together and pin it A LOT!IMG_20170703_152924

Now sew with a 1/2″ seam allowance straight stitch around the whole pillow. We slightly rounded each of our corners. Remove all the pins, and then zigzag around the edges – this just helps make sure your sweater doesn’t unravel. Unbutton your sweater and turn it inside out. Fit your pillow form inside!


The front of the pillow


The back of the pillow

To do the smaller pillow, I first cut the sleeves off of the remnant of the sweater.IMG_20170703_153725

I cut the sweaters into rectangles. The pillow we bought is 12″ x 16″. IMG_20170703_154948

I then took each piece and zigzagged the center seam of each of them as shown in the picture above. I wanted my seam to lay flat when I sewed the two pieces together. Next I placed them right sides together and did a 1/2″ straight stitch down the center. I then cut the sweater to be 17″ wide x 13″ tall.

I didn’t have enough sweater to make the back from the sweater so I found a coordinating piece of fabric and made an envelop enclosure. (Note to self: I need to write a better tutorial here.) I like a 3″ overlap between the pillows so I cut 2 pieces of fabric:

  • 13″ tall x 6.5″ wide
  • 13″ tall x 18.5″ wide (okay this piece was probably too big but I would rather it be too big than too small)

On the 6.5″ and 18.5″ sides, I turned the fabric over 1/2″ and then over another 1/2″ so I could make the seam.

I placed the two pieces together (so that the smaller section was underneath) on top of the sweater piece and made sure there was a 3″ overlap. Then I sewed around with another 1/2″ seam allowance and then zigzagged the edges.


The front of the pillow


The back of the pillow


Enjoy your upcycled sweaters! Happy sewing!

Monogramming Pillowcases

A friend got in touch with me recently and asked if I could monogram the cuff of a pillowcase. This is the process I follow to figure out what design and what colors they want.

  1. I ask what initials they want and then do mock ups of all the different font options I have.crjcrj2
  2. Once my customer picks the option they like the best, we figure out color choices. She picked the circular monogram with the beading around it.colors
  3. Now we pick which color option she likes best. In this case, my customer went with yellow letters surrounded by white beading.

Once my customer dropped off the pillowcase, I had to get it ready to be monogrammed.

  1. You need to seam rip the cuff of the pillow. I like to do this so that you don’t see any of the stitches inside the pillow.
  2. Next find the middle of the cuff, and embroider it on your machine.IMG_20170613_152722869
  3. Pin the cuff back in place. IMG_20170613_153212367
  4. Sew the two seam lines again.IMG_20170613_154155506

Now enjoy your newly monogrammed pillowcase! As always let me know if you have any questions!


How to make and attach Bias Binding

I am slowly getting this t-shirt quilt done. I quilted the top, batting, and backing together. I like to stitch in the ditch between the shirts and the sashing. Personally I don’t like seeing stitching on the shirts. IMG_20170609_155738

The next step is to make the binding. I measured the quilt and it is approximately 84″ x 100″. When I find the perimeter for the quilt I need about 368″ of bias binding. You always want more than this amount based on the corners and joining the two ends together.

To make the binding:

  1. Lay your fabric on your table, and fold the cut side down to the selvage giving you a 45 degree angle.IMG_20170611_143649453
  2. Press this angle using your fingers or an iron.
  3. Open the fabric up and you will see your pressed line. Cut along this line.
  4. Now cut 2.25″ strips along this same line. I cut 8 strips for this quilt.IMG_20170611_143929815
  5. Now you want to join the strips together. Take two of your strips. Lay one down on your ironing board horizontally. Lay the second strip right sides together vertically on top of that strip. Fold the top strip down at a 45 degree angle and press. Pin these strips together being careful to not move the fabric.
  6. Sew along this diagonal line. Cut the excess fabric off. I eyeball about 1/4″. Press the fabric outwards. Keep repeating until all the strips are sewn together. IMG_20170611_150126490
  7. Now that you have one long bias strip, you want to press it. Fold it over on top of itself bringing the cut side over to the other cut side. Iron the whole strip of fabric. I like to put the whole strip of fabric on a piece of cardboard to make it easier to deal with when sewing it to your quilt.

Sewing your binding to your quilt:

  1. Start at the bottom middle of your quilt. Leave a long tail of binding so that it is easy to sew the two ends together. I like to put pins 1/4″ away from each of the corners so that I know where to stop.
  2. Sew all the way to that pin and then turn it 45 degrees and sew off the quilt.IMG_20170612_103736074_HDR
  3. You then want to move the quilt away from the needle. Fold the binding at a 45 degree angle and then fold it back down so that the selvage edges are touching. (Sorry I didn’t take enough pictures so I am using my floor as my quilt… You can see in the first picture how I fold it up at an angle and in the second picture how I then fold the fabric back down along that line, my pretend quilt edge.)
  4. Now start sewing again 1/4″ from the top of the quilt. You can eyeball where the line is from where you just sewed your binding on. Continue sewing until you get back to the bottom of the quilt. Leave a good amount left undone so it is easier to sew both pieces together.
  5. Lay the two ends of binding on top of the quilt straight across the bottom. Overlap the two pieces and use a pin to mark where the top piece is 2.25″ longer than the first piece. Cut along this line. IMG_20170612_111605687
  6. Now you want to take your top piece open it up, and lay it on top of the bottom vertically piece right sides together. I then folded it at a 45 degree angle and finger pressed this line. Sew up this line and your binding will be all together.
  7. You can now sew the rest of the binding to the quilt!
  8. Once you are done, flip the quilt over and start sewing the binding to the front. I go slowly and just turn the binding over to the top of the quilt. Because of how you did the corners it makes the corners on the front easy! Just pull the back binding to the front all the way to the bottom and then fold the next side up and it will be a perfect angle!https://wordpress.com/post/joyfullysewnendeavors.wordpress.com/506

Here is my finished quilt!!!!


Here are some binding links that I found helpful, and this is how I learned…

Let me know if you have any questions! Happy Sewing!!!!


T-Shirt Quilts

More and more people these days like the idea of putting their college/race/baby clothes into a quilt. I now have a pile of my boys clothes so that hopefully I can do the same…. Here are some tips and the process that I use. I also find this site to be very helpful with fabric yardage needed.

Some decisions to make before you begin:

  • Do you want borders (sashing) between your squares?
  • Do you want your squares to be all the same size?
  • What size finished quilt do you want – lap, twin, double,…?

All of these decisions play a part in what materials you need!


  • old clothes that you want to cut a part
  • rotary cutter
  • ruler
  • 16.5″ plexiglass template – Lowes will do this for you so don’t try it at home. We failed miserably cutting it ourselves…. The size of the template depends on the shirts you have also. You can go bigger or smaller depending upon your shirts. This will give you your square size before seams. Note: this isn’t necessary; I just find it speeds the process up. I use this template to cut the shirts apart.
  • 15.5″ plexiglass template: I use this one to do the final cutting of my squares after the interfacing is on.
  • interfacing: I really like Pellon SF101 which I buy by the bolt. I bought 2 bolts for this project
  • fabric for sashing if needed


A 1/4″ seam is used for this whole process! I also find a walking foot to be very helpful when working on t-shirt quilts. It helps handle the bulk nicely.

  1. Lay your large 16.5″ template on top of your shirts and use it to cut the shirts apart.  Determine the largest design you have as that is how big your squares should be. Note: you don’t have to have squares in your quilt. I will show you some finished quilts I have done at the end.IMG_20170228_110822
  2. Cut your interfacing 2″ bigger than your largest shirt. With this quilt I am showing you step by step, I cut the interfacing 16″ wide and used the length of the bolt for the length. I then placed it the longest way on the shirt.
  3. Adhere your interfacing to the back of each shirt either using a handheld iron or a heat press. If you use an iron, pick up your iron and put it down. Do not smooth it over the top of the interfacing.IMG_20170301_122356
  4. Using your smaller plexiglass template square up your shirts.IMG_20170516_100650947
  5. Now it is time to arrange your squares! I try to make sure that a like colored shirt is not near a like colored shirt, i.e. there is no white shirt next to a white shirt in any direction.IMG_20170516_105954768_HDR.jpg
  6. Once I get the go ahead from my customer, I cut the sashing. For this quilt, I cut the sashing 2″ wide x 15.5″ long. Pin it to each of the squares except the last one in each row.
  7. Now that you have the sashing attached to each square, you want to bring your stack of squares to your ironing board. Iron towards the sashing as the t-shirts are bulky and the seam presses nicer that way. If your emblem is big, you will want to use a piece of muslin to cover the emblem as you iron. You do not want to ruin a shirt by having the iron stick to it.
  8. Now pin each square to it’s neighbor and sew the columns together.
  9. Once the whole row is sewn, you will want to add the sashing underneath. For this quilt, it took 2 15″x w.o.f. (width of fabric) pieces. You want to join these two pieces at a 45 degree angle so that it is harder to see the seam. I call this mitering your seams.
    • Lay one piece of fabric down on your ironing board. Lay the second piece on top with right sides together at a 90 degree angle.IMG_20170530_090951835.jpg
    • Make a 45 degree angle with that second piece of fabric and press this seam. Open the fabric up carefully holding onto it, and pin.
    • Sew along this pressed line. Press the seam open and cut off the excess fabric.
  10. Now you have one long piece of sashing that you can attach to each of the rows of shirts except for the last one. Pin the sashing into place and cut it to the appropriate length. IMG_20170528_162752882
  11. Once the sashing is attached to each row, you can sew the rows together.
  12. The last step is to create the outside borders. For the top and bottom borders, you will need 6 – 2.5″wide x w.o.f. strips sewn together in the manner above.
  13. Attach each strip to the bottom and top of the quilt with pins. When sewing these strips, start 1/4″ in from the top if you want mitered corners at the top. I reinforce these starting and stopping points. I also had a 3″ tail at the beginning and end of the quilt. These helps me to miter the corners.
  14. After you have sewn these on, cut the excess fabric off, but leave at least 3″ of fabric on either side of the quilt.
  15. You can use the leftover pieces from the border along with 4 – 2.5″ wide x w.o.f. strips. Sew them together as I did above.
  16. Attach these vertical strips to the quilt starting with 3″ of overhang and pin 1/4″ in from the top, making sure you also have a 3″ overhang at the bottom. Attach the borders to both sides.
  17. When you sew, start 1/4″ down from the top and stop 1/4″ from the bottom, which you can see in the picture above.
  18. Now you will want to miter your corners. This is the same technique as when you mitered your seams, but it may seem a little different.
    • Take your horizontal border and make a 45 degree angle with the vertical border. You can do it the other way around also.
    • Iron that angle.
    • Fold your horizontal border up to your vertical border at a 45 degree angle while holding onto the borders. Pin on either side of the ironed seam.
    • Next sew down that ironed line, starting at the 1/4″ seam from the two borders you added.
    • Cut the excess fabric off and iron again!
  19. The top of your quilt is now done!IMG_20170530_103323

Here are some other quilts that I have done that don’t have borders and have different sized blocks.


Sewing Machine Mat

With a new sewing room comes a new sewing table. I saw so many Pinterest links to the Ingo Table from Ikea and how it works well for sewing! So I ordered one and when it came unfinished I realized I should paint it. Well it’s so humid here that even though I let it sit for over a week after my 3 coats of paint, my big sewing machine stuck to the table. Ahhhh!

I started searching Pinterest yet again for sewing mat ideas. I saw this one, but I couldn’t find any pre-quilted fabric that I liked. I also saw this one and thought that’s more like it! But I didn’t want to add ribbon and I wanted something super simple.

I found two fabrics I liked and cut the following:

  • 31″ wide x 25″ tall: one from each fabric
  • 31″ wide x 21″ tall batting – I didn’t want the batting where the pocket was in the front. I thought it would be too bulky.

Place your main fabrics right sides together, and place your batting on top. Pin around the whole outside, leaving a gap on one side so you can turn it inside out.

Trim your corners at a 45 degree angle, and turn inside out. I then pressed all the seams and pinned the area that needed to be close. I did a finishing stitch around the whole entire mat. Then I flipped the bottom up 4″ and sewed the two sides closed. I created 5 pockets in this area, just by eyeballing it every 6″ or so. I wasn’t exact because I really think I will only use one of these pockets.


Sewing machine mat

Sewing Room Updates!

I have shared my sewing room space since we moved to North Carolina. After Ethan was born, I moved my sewing room downstairs because the sound woke him up from his naps. My sewing room was next door to his. Downstairs it shared a space with my guests.

We recently moved Ethan’s bedroom, and his old bedroom became our guest room. The closet in there is huge so it gives us a lot of storage that we need.

Now my sewing room is in one room – my embroidery machine and cutting table were in our office! I bought a table from Ikea and painted it gray. Jason and I painted the room “peach“. Then we could move furniture in! My mom also brought me a heat press so I had to figure out where that went. It is on the desk that was originally my sewing desk.

I added some pictures to the room so far – all sewing inspired pictures. The cross stitch pieces my grandma did. The shelf above my embroidery machine came from my parent’s house, and it hold my special angel collection and other quilt like figurines.

I recently made a sewing mat to go under my machine! I will write a post for that soon! I am loving my sew space now!

Slipcovers Part 2: Chair and Cushion

The first thing I did with this chair when I got it was to measure all the different parts to it. This chair seemed more square than the first one I did so I thought it would make the process easier by cutting rectangles of fabric that were approximately the size of the chair. And boy did that help!

Chair Dimensions: all dimensions are in inches

  • Back of the chair: 22 wide x 29.5 long
  • Front of the chair where your back would go: 26.5 wide x 24 long
  • Arms of the chair: 26 wide x 13.5 long (2)
  • Sides of chair: 24.5 wide x 21 tall (2)
  • Seat: 20 wide x 23 long
  • Front skirt: 25 wide x 10.5 long

So I cut pieces of fabric that were 1 – 2 inches bigger than each of these dimensions, and I started working from the back of the chair. I don’t have a great process for doing this….

My Bernina 765 does an amazing job of sewing, and the dual feed is very helpful with this thick fabric! I sewed the back of the chair piece to the front. Then I sewed the sides of the chair to the arms. I then sewed the arms to the seat of the chair. Then I figured out where they overlapped and pinned them while the material was on the chair inside out. And here is my final product!


Seat Cushion: 4″ tall x 20″ tall x 19″ wide in front and 17″ wide in back

  • cut 2: 20″ wide x 21″ tall pieces for the seat   Then from the 20″ side measure in 1″ and use a ruler to go from that point to the other end. Cut along this line. Repeat on the other corner.
  • cut 2: 3.5″ x 30″ long piece for the zipper part
  • cut 1: 52″ x 5″ piece to go around the rest of the cushion. This piece is longer than necessary

Sew the 2 3.5″ x 30″ pieces together using a 3/4″ seam allowance and do big basting stitches. I set my machine stitch length almost to 5. You will be seam ripping this seam as this is where the zipper goes. Note: I use a bigger seam allowance because the zipper I bought is bigger than a normal one. Press the seam open.IMG_20170425_171656837

Bring this piece of fabric to your machine along with your zipper, and put your zipper foot on your machine. Move your needle all the way to the left. Place your zipper teeth along this opened seam and start stitching.

Go down one side of the zipper and then turn your fabric and go down the other side. Once you are done, turn this new piece of fabric over and seam rip your seam to expose the zipper teeth. I also zigzag where the zipper and the 3/4″ seam are by folding the fabric over. This helps hold the zipper in place more securely and helps with fraying.IMG_20170426_102423518_HDR

Next you are ready to attach the 52″ x 5″ piece of fabric to this zipper piece. I attach it to the side where the zipper slide is because I like creating a pocket where the zipper can hide in. I first pin the two pieces together and then sew a 1/2″ seam allowance. Once I do this, I then turn the fabric right side up, and fold the fabric over by 1.5″ or so and stitch along that line to create a nice finished fold. I stitch down the fold so it makes the next steps easier.

Now we are ready to attach this piece to the bottom of the cushion. I begin by finding the middle of the zippered piece and pin that to the middle of the back part of the cushion. I pin all the way up to the corner where I snip a 45 degree angle. I also use my ruler to draw a line on the opposite part of the zipper part so I know that should be at the corner also.

I continued to pin all the way around until I reached the part where the pieces were apart. I saw exactly where they matched, and drew a line 1″ away from the piece that doesn’t have the zipper. I cut the fabric on that line, and then put right sides together and sewed using a 1/2″ seam.

Then I was able to pin the rest of the way and brought it to my machine. At the corners I stopped about 1/2″ from the corner, I went backwards and forwards to secure these stitches. I picked my needle up and pivoted to the next side. I continued in this fashion around the whole cushion.

The reason I drew the lines on each of the corners was so that I could match them up when I go to put on the other side. This is an easy way to match up the corners perfectly. Make sure to open up the zipper so that you can turn the cushion inside out. IMG_20170426_110703002

Again, I snip each of the corners at a 45 degree angle and pin around the whole cushion. Bring it back to your sewing machine, and sew the lastpart up.

After this step, I do zigzag each of the seams to help the cushion from fraying too much.


And your cushion is all finished. Enjoy it on your chair! Happy Sewing!


Slipcovers: Part 1 Ottoman Cover

I now finished my second slipcover for a chair and ottoman. I don’t have any great method of making them, but this second time around I decided I would try and work from the measurements of the chair.

Here are the original chair and ottoman! I cut off the skirts of each using my pinking shears.

Note: I realized I should have taken pictures as I did this project, but I didn’t so I took some pictures after I was done. Hopefully those help!

These are my beginning dimensions and how I cut my fabric:

Ottoman Dimensions: 23 wide x 18 long x 10 tall

  • cut 1: 24″ x 19″ rectangle
  • cut 2: 24″ x 11.5″ rectangles (long)
  • cut 2: 19″ x 11.5″ rectangles (short)

Draw a 1″ line on the back of the 24″ x 11.5″ and 24″ x 11.5″ rectangles on the longest side. This will give you a 1/2″ seam that will be at the finished edge of the ottoman at the bottom. Fold up to your line and press. Then fold this seam over and press again. Sew along this seam to create your finished edge. Now your rectangles are 10.5″ tall. Here is what my edge looks like:


Pin one 24″ x 10.5″ rectangle to a 19″ x 10.5″ rectangle and sew along the 10.5″ side. Continue sewing your rectangles by alternating the long and short sides, and then finally sew the remaining sides together. You now have a tube of fabric.

Take your tube of fabric and lay it right sides together with your big rectangle. Take the 24″ x 10.5″ side and line it up with the 24″ side of your rectangle. Pin along the whole length. At your corners, undo part of your seam so that you can create a 45 degree angle. Continue pinning around the whole rectangle in this manner. IMG_20170425_154917105Then sew and pivot at your corners. I have my fabric at the corners at a 45 degree angle. I can see where the line from the tube is and sew up to there. Then I go backwards a little bit to secure this corner. After I go back, I pick my needle up and turn my fabric. I also change the fabric so the top fabric is at a 45 degree angle.

I like to zigzag all my raw edges to prevent fraying! Then inside it out and you are done!


Let me know if you have any questions!

How to add Piping to a Pillow

When you want to add piping to a project, the first thing you need to do is make the piping! I find this tutorial quite helpful: http://www.sew4home.com/tips-resources/sewing-tips-tricks/pillow-personality-fairfield-processing-how-make-and-attach-piping

How much piping do I need? Well for me I am still working on my 18″ pillow covers. So I need 19″x4 = 76″ length of bias tape. I add about 4 inches to that just to make sure I have enough.

I bought 3/16″ cording from the store. I am using a 0.5″ seam allowance. So the width of my strips needs to be (3/16″ x 2) + (1/2″ X 2) = 1 3/8″ wide. I cut mine 1.5″ wide because I am just learning how to do piping.

How to make Bias tape

  1. Lay your fabric flat on top of your cutting mats, right side up with the selvedge at the bottom.
  2. Fold the fabric diagonally so the cut edge and selvedge are parallel and press on that line.IMG_20170420_095628123
  3. Open up your fabric and cut along that pressed line. Sorry for the blurry picture. This is what my 45 degree angle looks like.
  4. Now cut strips of fabric 1.5″ wide
  5. Luckily this fabric gave me exactly the length I needed for each pillow. I did join pieces of bias tape together since I am making 3 pillows. To join the strips together, you want to join them at 45° angles. Place one strip on a flat surface, right side up. Place a second strip on top of the first one at a right angle. Then draw a diagonal line from corner to corner and pin in place. Sew along this line and trim the seam allowance to 1/4″. Press seam open.

Insert the cording

  1. Place the cord in the center of the strip.
  2. Wrap the cording in the fabric by folding one selvedge edge to the other.IMG_20170420_144016887
  3. Put your zipper foot on your machine and move your needle position all the way to the left.
  4. Place your fabric and cording under the zipper foot and slowly stitch until you reach the end.IMG_20170420_150522823

Adding the cording

I like to start close to the center of the pillow. I start by pinning it in place and pin all the way until I get to the corner.


When I reach the corner, I take my scissors and make a 45° angle cut on the cording.

Then I continue pinning until I make it all the way around to where you started. I cut off the bias tape at least 1″ longer than what it should be. Next I open up the seam so I can cut out the excess cording.

Next I fold over the excess fabric and use it to cover the piece where I started pinning. I pin the piping down to the pillow fabric.

Now it is time to sew! Here is what it will look like when you are done.


To attach the second side of the pillow, I lay the side with the zipper correct side down on the piece you just sewed and I really pin it all the way around. When you are sewing, you still use your zipper foot and stay as close to the piping as possible.

Once I finish sewing, I put my regular #1 foot onto my machine and I zig zag around all the way around the edges of the pillow. You can also do that to each piece before, but I found it easier to do it at the end. This helps the integrity of the pillow plus when washing the edges will not fray as much. I also cut the zipper to the right length at the end.  I also cut a 45 degree angle at the corners or do a slightly rounded corner.

Inside out your pillows, put your pillow form in, and you are done! These pillows below show the front of back of the pillows I made during this tutorial!

Note: These pillows are going to be used outside. You can buy pillow forms that are specifically for outside use; however, I bought regular pillow forms and then I bought these waterproof pillow protectors at Target. I then sewed them to be the correct size, and now my pillow are waterproof also!

Please feel free to leave any comments or questions you might have! Happy sewing!